Cavansham Ferry and Llanstephan Quarries

United Kingdom

Cavansham Ferry, River Wye, with “grauwacke” bedrock. On 11 July 1831 Murchison ferried across the pool of calmer water, visible upstream, to 'discover' the Silurian.

Cavansham Ferry, River Wye, with “grauwacke” bedrock. On 11 July 1831 Murchison ferried across the pool of calmer water, visible upstream, to ‘discover’ the Silurian.

Geological Period

Late Silurian (Ludlow to Pridoli)

Main geological interest

History of geosciences
Stratigraphy and sedimentology

Location

Wye Valley, Powys, Wales, United Kingdom
52°04’12”N, 003°17’32”W

Cavansham Ferry, River Wye, with “grauwacke” bedrock. On 11 July 1831 Murchison ferried across the pool of calmer water, visible upstream, to ‘discover’ the Silurian.

Location of “the first true Silurian”, as designated by its founder Sir Roderick Impey Murchison.

Cavansham Ferry and Llanstephan is an iconic site with international significance for geological heritage as the place the originator of the Silurian, Roderick Impey Murchison, identified as the location where he began to establish what became the Silurian System, labeling it in his notebook “N.B. This was the first true Silurian.” Murchison’s seminal book, ‘The Silurian System’, is of great importance to all students of Lower Palaeozoic geology.This site provides uniquely important context for understanding the motives, approaches, practises and interpretation Murchison employed in founding the Silurian. These outcrops mark an essential stage in the development of modern stratigraphy.

“Low-terrace shaped ridges of grey rock”, Cavansham Ferry to Trewerne Hills. Yellow marks the line of Murchison’s section, red dashed lines are ridge crests.

On the right bank of the River Wye, by Trerickett Mill, the “Old Red Sandstone” (Devonian, Pridoli, Moor Cliffs Formation) is “quit” and “Grauwacke slate” (Silurian, Ludlow, Ludfordian) is exposed in the bed of river, and crops out on the left bank as several “low terrace-shaped ridges”. This is the first site where Murchison encountered “grey-coloured strata” of “grauwacke” containing fossils he considered “differing from any known in superior deposits”. Crossing the river at Cavansham Ferry Murchison “rushed up to those ridges” at Llanstephan Quarries, and to “inexpressible joy found them replete with transition fossils.” Upwards, “the strata…plunges to the east…under the Old Red Sandstone.” The archaic geological descriptions quoted here were used by Murchison in his 1831 field notebook No.2. Later, he noted: “The order of succession seen in the left bank of the Wye…first led me to suspect I had met with a district that contained a good part of evidence required to lead to a systematic study of older formations.” (Murchison 1839, 5). Retrospectively, Murchison considered this site as the location where he discovered the Silurian, culminating in his establishment of the Silurian System. As such, it provides great insight into Murchison’s early fieldwork methods and thinking.

The precise location of Cavansham Ferry was uncertain, with some scholars even doubting its existence, until Hawley (1997) identified this site as ‘the first true Silurian’ using Murchison’s original field notes and systematic inspection of the ground. Since then, the location has been visited by geologists from the both U.K. and worldwide.

Murchison’s section from Wye valley to Trewene Hills drawn in his notebook, 11th July 1831, with later addition “N.B. This was the first true Silurian”.
(© Geological Society of London, reproduced with permission).

Geikie, S.A. (1875) Life of Sir Roderick I. Murchison, Bart.,; K. C. B., F. R. S.; Sometime Director-general of the Geological Survey of the United Kingdom. Based on his Journals and Letters with Notices of his Scientific Contemporaries and a Sketch of the Rise and Growth of Palaeozoic Geology in Britain (2 vols). London: John Murray.

Hawley, D. (1997) ‘“The first true Silurian” : an evaluation of the site of Murchison’s discovery of the Silurian’, Proceedings of the Geologists’ Association, 108(2), pp. 131–140. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0016-7878(97)80035-1.

Murchison, R.I. (1831) Field Notebook. No. 2., Murchison papers. LDGSL/839/58, Geological Society of London Archives. (Murchison’s field section, extracted from page 7 is © Geological Society of London, reproduced with permission).

Murchison, R.I. (1839) The Silurian System (2 vols). London: John Murray.

Secord, J.A. (1986) Controversy in Victorian Geology: The Cambrian-Silurian Dispute. Princeton University Press. Available at: https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt7zv9kj.

Thackray, J.C. (1978) ‘R. I. Murchison’s Silurian System (1839)’, Journal of the Society for the Bibliography of Natural History, 9(1), pp. 61–73. Available at: https://doi.org/10.3366/jsbnh.1978.9.1.61.

Duncan Hawley.
History of Geology Group (Geological Society of London, United Kingdom) and INHIGEO.